Road to Waterford and after

In Воспоминания, Простые истории, Путешествия, Фото-пост
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Еду в Вотерфорд. Из Корка.
Есть большая надежда, что поедем по береговой линии, и я хотя бы из окна автобуса смогу ощутить, что я на острове… Какого черта я до сих пор не вожу машину? Это сильно облегчило бы мне жизнь.

Сегодня сбежала из Дублина просто потому что устала от большого города.

Сбежала в Корк. Он второй по величине в Ирландии, но тоже оказался небольшим :) Решила не возвращаться домой и еду в Вотерфорд, это небольшой уютный прибрежный городок. Пока искала в путеводителе какую-нибудь гостиничку, поняла что хочу переночевать в Dunmore East, это маленькая рыбацкая деревушка неподалеку… Слишком уж сладко ее описывают..

Почему именно сбегаю из Дублина?

Я ведь ехала, по сути, за уникальной ирландской культурой, особой атмосферой, духом.. Да, несомненно есть культура страны, региона и они ощущаются в Дублине… Но это только на самом поверхностном уровне, когда ты только попадаешь в страну и Дублин – твой первый город. Дальше на тебя обрушивается культура ГОРОДА, которая зачастую сильно подавляет любую культуру страны.

McDonald’s, Subway, M&S, Oasis, Sturbucks, Tiffany, Uggs, Zara, H&M… Одни и те же вывески повсюду, одни названия, одни вещи, одна еда… Я так надеялась в Cork найти Buttler&Sons, FitzPatrickCo.. это я к примеру… На рождественской ярмарке в Дублине видела столько чудесных товаров из Корка. Один фермерский козий сыр с клюквой чего стоит, а ферм там много! Но я не встретила ни одного местного самобытного магазинчика за день… И совсем расстроившись, съела сэндвич в Subway. Потому что типовым сабвэйским сэндвичам в большом городе легче пробиться, чем лавке прекрасных, вкусных, здоровых продуктов с фермы.

Когда мы сделали выбор в пользу единоликости и предсказуемости??? Когда начали ходить по H&M around the world??? Мы говорим о серой людской массе и сами создаем её. Убиваем уникальность, местечковость, атмосферность, семейственность..

Раньше были семьи. Семейные традиции, истории, преемственность, секретные рецепты прапрапрапрабабушкиного пирога с ежевикой в имбирном соусе в конце-концов.. Почему сейчас этого так мало??? Я ни в коем случае не говорю сейчас про “и вообще трава раньше была зеленее”… Но всё же..

Когда-нибудь мы конечно наедимся этой усредненной действительности.. Уже сейчас все больше и больше людей приходит к этому. Бросают навязанные обществом стереотипные профессии, отправляются путешествовать или возвращаются к ручному труду (модное слово дауншифтер?..) люди просто изголодались по простым радостям. Простым и понятным. По молоку из коровы, ягодам с куста, аромату свежескошенной травы, а не дорогого парфюма..

.. И именно поэтому из этого тут же начали делать тренд и продавать его в тридорога….

Ладно, я уже начинаю отвлекаться от темы.. Это просто о наболевшем.

Проезжаем Midltown.. Тут нет ни одного одинакового домика:) даже если они одного цвета, то окошки точно разного:)
За окном ночь, хотя времени всего 17:22.. Во сколько приедем не знаю , а ведь мне еще ночлег искать:) а улицы пусты…

В общем, сильно я расстроилась, оттого что Корк – это просто город, а не особенный ирландский городок. Надеюсь, что мне все же удастся найти мою уникальную деревушку и заночевать там.

Хотя, возможно единственная уникальность, которая существует это та, которая живет в каждом из нас. Но точно, я на 100% уверена, что есть места, которые ее раскрывают, а есть – которые подавляют.

Ладно, да пребудет со мной благословенная irish luck!

…Дальше всё происходило примерно так.

Вышла из автобуса в Вотерфорде. На улице темно и немноголюдно. Расписания автобусов до Данмор Ист не видно. Спрашивать почему-то не хочется. Уловив мою растерянность на лице, ко мне привязался молодой парень, который в одной кофте таскался со мной по улицам, чтобы помочь найти чертов автобус и параллельно зазывал к себе на чай. Еле отвязалась. Пошла гулять и искать B&B в городе, потому что найти автобус до заветной деревушки в ночи шансов не было.
Я сдалась :(

Людей вокруг не было, поэтому завидев первого приличного, посоветовалась с ним по поводу ночлега и понуро пошла в указанном направлении. На следующем повороте мы опять пересеклись и он улыбаясь спросил:

– you don’t know where you’re going, yeh?
– exactly.. Actually i was going to stay in Dunnmore East, but i can’t find any bus to get there..
– oh! You were on a right way.. DE’ll be your best option tonight!
– really think so?
– absolutely.
.. Долгий многозначительный взгляд.
– and what should i do?
– take a taxi.
– where?
– just ask in this hotel and they’ll ring it up.
…Многозначительная улыбка.
– thanks!
– enjoy!!!!

Хм, оказывается, все может быть так просто, и ничего я не сдалась!!! В отеле мне вызвали такси, которое стоило ровно все мои последние наличные деньги. Ехали минут 20 в полной темноте. То есть, по дороге фонарей нет совсем. Таксист оказался ирландцем, 14-м ребенком в семье и вообще добрым малым. Оказывается, это первый снег в его жизни!!! Такое бывает?! Африка не в счет! Привезя меня на место еще и экскурсию устроил.

– tomorrow on the place of this darkness,- сказал он показывая на бесконечную и непроглядную мглу,- you’ll see The Irish sea!

Потом показал мне удивительные белые домики с пушистыми крышами, точь-в-точь как на моем путеводителе!!! Я чуть не расплакалась от того, что наконец нашла эту самую ирландскую местечковость и самобытность!
B&B вокруг было штук пять, так что я, пребывая в неком ажиотаже, расплатилась и отпустила Деклена.

Ммм! Какой чудесный пряничный домик с кованым столиком во дворе и заветной вывеской B&B, я уже так и представила большую теплую комнату, камин, беседу за поздним чаем, чашки из тонкого фарфора…

– sorry, but i’m closed!
– what do you mean?
– i can’t give you a bed.
– why??? Are you sure?
– yes. It’s all about this weather and snow, i’m not ready… Sorry. Ask there! –

И мне показали на домик напротив. Я не совсем поняла, что произошло, но пошла в указанном направлении…
Дальше было еще 4 таких же отказа.. B&B закончились, а на единственном большом отеле висела большая табличка “closed for winter”

Ночь. Пустая крошечная рыбацкая деревушка. Мороз. Никакого транспорта. Никакого ночлега. Но так романтично завывает море:)

Остался последний Guest house, но он был в километре ходьбы по неосвещенной дороге и через лес.. Я не рискнула:)
Вместо этого абсолютно замерзшая, но с верой в людей зашла в местный бар-кафе-ресторан Azurro. Там было тепло, и были добрые пьяненькие ирландцы. С большим оживлением и интересом выслушали они мою историю и начали придумывать план моего ночлега:) Куда-то звонили, искали что-то в интернете, спорили, угощали меня вином, расспрашивали о Москве. В итоге единственным местом, где меня согласились принять был этот Sommerwille в километре от нас. Встал следующий вопрос-как мне туда попасть? Ибо далеко, холодно и темно. Такси? Но у них в деревне нет такси… В итоге нашли единственную девушку, которая не пила этим вечером, она меня и подбросила на машине.

В общем, я и слов не подберу, чтобы сказать с какой благодарностью я уходила от них…! Хотя, может, когда-нибудь и подберу и опишу эту историю еще раз:)
Кстати, девушка Анна рассказала мне, что в Корке все же есть так называемый English market, на котором продаются товары только с окрестных ферм:) просто я не нашла его! Мне прям полегчало от этого:)

Ночь была жутко холодной, два одеяла меня так и не спасли, пароль для вайфая был в 24 буквоцифры… Зато утро вознаградило меня за все мытарства. С самого утра светило яркое ясное солнце, и на месте вчерашней мглы действительно было море! А еще были красные скалы, суровые волны, крикливые чайки, разноцветные рыбацкие лодки и много зеленой-зеленой травы, которая в руках мягкая-мягкая словно нити кашемира…


Dear Lord, bless Ireland!

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